Armed only with underwater slates and cameras, a dozen snorkelers slipped into the ocean further up the beach, allowing the constant wind to help them drift South and back to the village of tents. Then smaller groups of divers turned on the valves of their air tanks and kicked slowly offshore before drifting down to the reef below. All were greeted by hungry schools of fish – herbivores – parrotfish and surgeonfish chomping away and keeping the coral reef from being overwhelmed by the algae. In a soundless exchange of solidarity, a dozen divers waved and gave the “okay” sign to a dozen snorkelers patrolling from the surface. They had come to see the abundance of marine life and they found biodiversity. Scattered across the bottom of the reef were the experiments of scientists in big metal cages (under permit, of course) studying the role of urchins in the health of the coral reef ecosystem.

Back on shore, with gear cleaned up and packed away, they feasted and posed for photographs. Of course there was a Kahekili birthday cake. And, of course there was the traditional group photo with everyone wearing funny little birthday hats. Sylvia Earle has a dream of “hope spots” – places that are critical to the health of the ocean. Kahekili is a “hope spot” in the main Hawaiian Islands because it was doomed to become another reef collapse. But, thanks to the work of scientists, government, community and volunteers, there is hope.